starting with a pretty cute girl that was about to decide between two different rollei cameras. neat cameras by the way.. especially for 20€.

lorant bought himslef a strap.. that was a bit short.. wasted money :D


this dude seemed intresting for a photo.


some people just don't know that they are standing somewhere "photogenic". it's just funny that he'll never know that he was responsible for a nice streetshot.


on thursday, i had a shoot for a .. i dunno if i can say it.. well.. i just shot 4 models on a trampoline.. their styles have changed in between.. they sometimes looked ridiculous.. so i took a photo for my family album.



that's in about what they look like, only that they'll remove the background and replace it with the sky.. all kind of cloudy ones. will show the endresults when they have them.



i made one for myself too:



verena looking outside.


mr.kerian aka sebastian.. right after i told him a funny story of my life.


sebastian gave me that roll of neopan1600, which i shot starting with him up there.


the weather was shiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiit. 3degrees and rain.. 2 days long. it was 4:30am i think.


two poor guys sitting in the cold.. the one was shivering pretty badly from time to time.


"hello, this is chalk, found it!"


neopan1600 in all it's glory. on my print list !


mriam and orange juice.


miriam getting tired ?



a very coooool guy...


a gig photo. i don't like gig photos very often.. this one is just funny since it was 5.6 and half a second.. i have captured some flash of the stage and even intended it.. ha.


after the gig.. he soon is a star !!!!


two men being male !



home again. trix@2000 starting here.



lorant showing off his very kewl lighter !


lorant thinking of my cock size.


a dead mouse in the rain. f2 1/8th 2000iso.. pretty dark. shoud look nice on paper.



at least the rain made a nice atmosphere


D and GGGGGGGGGG ... stupid !!


seek the focus ;)


a classic. ain't it ?


lorant and the baguette.. a very hot one.


and we went to the zipp.. 3rd bar already that evening... and people got more drunk the later it was.. including ourselfs.


4th and last location. WIRR. a queer party going on. met someone who didn't recognize me anymore.. that's always funny.. especially when you have known him for years almost.. drugs, yeah. bad things.


5am. pretty boozed. still hipshots worked out.. wackel !?


that's how the evening ended. two börkes (some turkish thing to eat) at 5:30am.. or 6 ? i dunno exaclty.. i just knew this is going to be a nice photo


and this too !


wheater changed again.. thank the lord !

ran out of plusx. so here is some fuji acros 100. fine fine grain.. great contrast, pretty good tones.. but plusx has better tones. i prefer apx100 and plusx to acros. maybe for architecture it's a good choice.





"take 2 pay one" mabye they do this all the time, with their suits, shoes and hair-dressers ??



HITLER stay out ! funny picture of hitler !


big canvas. big art ?


little boy sitting on a trash can playing gameboy outside the darkroom. inside the darkroom his daddy hard working on his very first prints. both were busy with their "games" ;)


cafe sperl. always good for a shot.


old vienniese lady. dedicated to bernhard, because these make him horny.


a funky cab. a funky fuji contrast.


exposed on the highlights.. funny.


sometimes i'm REALLY glad that i'm not 15 anymore.


last frame.. sun set already.. 100iso. i had to finish. hipshot f2.0 1/45th.. i like it.

trix normal.

hipshot 1


hipshot 2 (he is looking in the camera.. i like that. turned out crazy good. spot on focus f2.0 and exposure 1/30)



hipshot 3

just a roll of trix. exposed on 2000asa, developed 17:30min 20C° xtol 1:1 3xmoving/30seconds.

yay my first photo i've taken with glasses on ! works okay with 35mm framelines.


and here my second. almost crewdsonish.


tobi playing with my glasses.


we played a game called "siedler von catan" aka "sandler von kasachstan" aka "saubären von kirgistan"


been to the biggest flea market place by accident.


people seeking for gold in between the left overs of the flea market.


there was no such thing as light.. i needed 6400asa at least.




"there is wacos out there". i'm agreeing there.


here is one !


two ladies, smuggling cocaine in a mickey mouse fluffy.


a nice self aka "your face is trapped in an wormhole". cheers to travis !


a young lady reading the newspaper. on weekends you can just grab them for free.. if you're brave enough.



by the way. we developed a trix exposed on 3200 asa for 24min at 21C° in xtol 1:1.. just so you know, it worked somehow.. yeah. so if you want to push your trix 3 steps, don't fear developing for 25min and moving every 45seconds 2-3times....

the official time for trix@3200 is 15:30min at 20C°.. if you prefer that ! ;)

if you wonder how i order my phots in the blog. i submit them chronological.

the last plusx i had in stock:

the imperator !


it seems high on something


which one would you choose if you had to ?



it says you have a free wish if you see one of these. so i had 3 free wishes then, right ?. want to print this one for tones and detail.


having a nap. it says "air conditioned" above the BLAGUSS. i metered and added a step because of the toned glass of the bus.


yawning and eating. best images, i tell you.


very vienniese couple.


i passed them, thought a second about the scene, decided to turn around.. and then i realized that it has been much easier to take photos with the sun not against it.. turned out okay.. but i just loved the scene.. as i realized the third fifth baby coming across, i had to release.


took this one by guessing.. i just walked by.. turned out better than i would have imagined.


MQ at its finest ;)


plus x at its finest ! f2.0 1/8th. there is no way i'd choose ilford over kodak. plus x and tri x are with no doubt the best two b/w films for me and my photos.


here a trix. exposed on 3200. developed 21min @ 20C° moving 3times every 30seconds. didn't turn out nice. actually horrible for my standards.. i really wonder why a trix exposed up to 2400iso looks great but on 3200 loses so much quality.




met my uncle by chance.. it's funny. humans are like dogs. you just need to call a certain name and they turn around.




now that's contrast. a bit too much for that "abused" trix.


now something else. a few steps down, 8 to be accurate. an apx100 exposed on 25asa and developed on 25.


i love that you can shoot at f2.8, even in brightest sunlight.




mrs. overdressed passed by.



25asa can be a real pain in the ass though.. this bus was parking in the shadow and had toned glass.. so i had f2.0 1/30th on a sunny day... kinda extreme.



it's funny and typically vienniese that after winter when it turns to 15 degrees and sunlight, that everyone seems to pop out of their flats and apartements to just sit somewhere and read or just take a nap. kinda intresting how people just decide to sit on asphalt and stone. that's the city.


one of my fav frames today. will print it too.



also funny about 25asa is that you can make panningshots in bright sunlight. f16 1/15th ! ;)



techincally maybe the best photo of the roll.. tones rock and the focus too.


shooting with 25asa in the subway.. what a joke. f2.0 1/4th


sun makes sleepy.

took some photos at the exhibition opening, where i was part of (portraits at the power station).

actually most of my recent photos are meaningless, so meaningless and unspectacular, that i didn't plan to submit any.. but it seems like it's one of these routine things, you just do, even if you don't see the reason everytime. so i share photos again and some of you will like some of them.. but i know that probably none of these negatives will ever see an enlarger.

i don't have much more to say about the following photos. they have not much content, that's probably the reason.



i found it idiotique to make a keybord with 103 keys, for each number it's own key. imagine calcualtors were made like that..

she was asleep, or seemd so. the moment i hit the trigger, she woke up.. she must have been quite confused :D





what an ugly bag of cats !


and what an ugly bag of dogs ! (ps: she was sitting almost right in front of the lady with the cat-bag. i've never seen one bag like these.. but these were almost the same bags, just the one was with cats and the other with dogs)



wasting the last frame. didn't know what she did behind me. yawning obviously.


weird guy on the toilet.


me on the "toilet"


now some more meaningless photos:

since i got asked many times in the last days and weeks about film processing, i thought i'd talk about what i know about it a littlebit.

so how to develope a film correctly ?

you need:

your film (best: cool storage, where you bought it and also where you stored it and of course not expired years ago)

developer such as id11, xtol, d76, dd-x, rodinal, microdol, microphen, ilfosol and co.

stop-bath (avoids that you mix developer and fixer, so your fixer lasts longer). stop bath with indicator is useful, because you use it until it turns from yellow to purple.

fixer (really no matter what brand, just the cheapest usually diluted 1:4 with water)

hypoclearing agent (not necessairily needed, but saves time and ensures that you film or paper is correctly washed. it "kills" the leftovers of the fixer that's soaked up in the material. hypoclean lasts longer when you wash your film/paper after the fix)

wetting agent (brand doesn't matter, still it's funny that tetenal seems to have a good one. usually diluted 1:200 or 1:400)


so when you have all your stuff together, you open the film and please, be sure that the room you're in is really dark.. i open mine with my hands.. i don't know how you do it, you'll find a way. you cut your film here and put it slowly on a spool.. well if you don't know that already..



before you put developer in your tank, be sure you have the correct time for your film and the specific developer, dilution and temperature.

usualy you develope at 20C°. if you go warmer, you'll shorten developing time but also increase grain and also contrast a bit.

dilution depends on your developer. most are 1:1 with water, but rodinal for example can be used 1:100 too, you just need a certain minimum amount of developer (10ml with rodinal, 100ml with xtol f.e.) best you check it before you use the developer.

stock means that you use the developer without dilution.

here is a useful link for developing times: http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.html

so when you have your developing time for your film, put in your smelly liquid. move it a bit (10 seconds).

move your film 2-3 times every minute or every 30 seconds. movement increases contrast and is needed to reach good tonal range. if you pull a film or shoot in a low contrast situation (cloudy day etc) moving your film every 30seconds will be needed. if you shoot on sunlight, you can reduce your movement to 2 times or even just every minute. depends on the film.

(everytime you have moved your film, it's good to hit the tank a little on the table or wherever you place it, so that air-bubbles don't thwart contact between film and developer)

pushing a film 1 step doesn't change the developing process a lot. you'll have a bit longer developing time.

pushing your film 2 or 3 steps, asks for much longer times. you can push films as trix, hp5 but also tmax400 2-3 steps. but mostly non t-grain films !

you'll have times up to 20minutes and more. that means you move your film about 120 (3x/30sec) times during the whole process.

push your film with the correct developer (push developers as xtol, hc110,dd-x..)

to avoid too much grain, don't develope stock or with the wrong developer (no d76 or id11 f.e.)

keep your temperature between 20 and 21C°.

be sure that the temperature remains the same during the whole process !

when your time is up, replace the used developer with stop bath. don't mix it. put your old developer in a bottle, don't tip it away !

move the tank with the stop for about 30 seconds. put the used stop bath back in your bottle. you can use it more than once ! stop baths with indicator can be used until the change colour.

now fix your film. depending on the film and condition of your fixer, it takes 3-10minutes.. but be sure it's long enough.. better fix your film longer than too short. it doesn't affect the image if you fix it too long.

move your tank with the fixer !

you can use your fixer more than once ! you can buy a fix-check if you want. 300ml fix 1:4 (1500ml diluted) fix about 15films 35mm films.

wash your tank. check if the film is fixed (it should look transparent and clean)

now wash your film in running water for about 20min. your water should move but you don't need 10 bar, don't waste too much water.

a filmcascade helps you reducing washing time down to 3-5min !

if you have hypoclean. you can use it after washing your film 60 sec. after the fixbath. it's a little helper you definately need for baryt prints, but not necessairily for films.. but i use it for a reason.

wash your film again after hypo for 5min.

put your washed film in the wetting agent ( your film should be transparent and should not show strong colour tint. trix and hp5 can be medium pruple, plus-x light purple. apx100, neopan1600 and tmax films should be almost completely transparent)

if you don't use wetting agent, you will have water marks and dust on your film.

this process just takes about a minute. jusrt be sure that the whole film has contact with the wetting agent.

use one of these to wipe off the wetting agent.
best you put your filmgripper in the wetting agent before. pull your whole film through the gripper at once. don't press to strong (scratches) but also not too light, because a (too) wet surface will collect dust while drying and you'll have white dots all over the negatives.

hang your film. use some weights as these to get your film straight while it drys.

use a film dryer if you have one, if not, you can use a fan too. don't adjust your fan too hot or hold it too close, you can ruin your film, but no worries with the fan, you must be very stupid if you don't see when your film starts to melt ;)

the longer it takes a film to dry, the more dust it will collect !

in a film dryer it takes from 5 to 10min to dry a film.



in general: use your chemicals at the same temperature. also wash your films between 18 and 24c°.
store your chemicals between 15 and 25C°. especially for developers: press the air out that's left in the bottle before you store it !
if you store your developer with too much air in the bottel, it will ruin the developer.



here some examples for negatives in different stages.

this is what your film should look like if you want good contrast

this is a trix at 18min 21C° xtol 1:1, exposed on 2400iso:


here is the scan of neg 29: 29


skintones should look like medium-dark grey usually. sorry, i only have one useful film at home and it's a trix+3.. but this negative is still representative for what skintones should look like on a neg:


and here the scan


when your negatives look like that, you have no contrast. you haven't moved the film enough or the developing time was too short. in some cases it could be that your developer is broken (wrong storage)



these negs are completely fucked.. but you can clearly see that they aren't fixed correctly. the yellow-brown veil shows it.



here negatives 6,7 and 8 are overdeveloped (or overexposed). you don't have any (near) transparent areas in the photo so no blacks on the print. if you have a negative like that, you'll have long enlarging times and high gradation probably. you lose tones also.



in general, the font of the brand should be clearly sharp and medium-dark. especially when you push films more than 1 step, the font should be black.

ps: and no matter what mister the great G! aka Gilad says about exposure, a good negative is a correctly exposed and correclty developed one. your best negatives will be your best prints too. you don't have a raw editor when you shoot on film, remember that ;)